Ramazan

A bonus to living in a large city, with a predominately Islamic following, is that I get to experience various holidays and traditions. One that recently took over our lives here in Istanbul was Ramazan. First of all, in most of the world it is called Ramadan. However, here is it called Ramazan. I have not entirely figured out the reasons for this.

Ramazan is the ninth month of the Islamic calendar. The Islamic calendar is different from the standard calendar used by most of the world because it is based on the lunar positions. Every year, the months change, so every year Ramazan starts and ends on a different day. Although, the days only move one or two days a year. This year it began on August 11th. Similar to the normal length of a month, Ramazan ends 30 days (or so) later.

During Ramazan, Muslims are expected to fast during the day. This means no beverages, food, or sexual activity from sun up until the evening call for prayer at sunset. Naturally, as the month progressed, the sun rose later and set sooner. The purpose of fasting is to remind Muslims about the importance of patience and spirituality. Along with fasting, the Quran is read more intensely, daily. I also learned that with fasting, Muslims are reminded of the many people living in poverty and unable to eat at every meal.

On the first day of Ramazan, August 11th, I happened to have the day off. Knowing that it was the first day of Ramazan, yet easily forgetting, I toured the town. Instantly, I noticed a difference on the streets…there were not as many people! It took me about a mile’s bus ride to remember why. As we continued into town, I noticed many restaurants were closed. This is typical, as business is far less during the days this month, so they do not waste money keeping their restaurants open. When I arrived at Usküdar it was lunchtime. I grabbed a quick sandwich and ate away. I noticed there were very few people eating. Not nearly as many as I had seen in the past, flocking around the Döner stands. It felt a little weird. I even thought someone “tisked, tisked, tisked” at me. Looking back I realized I must have imagined it because it is not uncommon for someone to eat during the day. Typically, women are expected to eat while on their periods to keep their bodies healthy.

On this particular day, I happened to head out to the Grand Bazaar. I had not gotten there until late in afternoon, around 7pm. At that time many of the shopkeepers were closing up. I knew this was particularly early, so I asked what was going on. I was told that because of Ramazan, the Grand Bazaar was closing early to enjoy Iftar.

Iftar is the evening meal that is served after the call for prayer. Usually families get together each night to enjoy this meal and the end of fasting for the day. Later on in the month, I was able to enjoy an Iftar dinner at a restaurant with the family. Though we arrived late, the evening meal was quite interesting. Immediately after the call for prayer, waiters began serving dinner. The restaurant was packed, with not a single table empty. It started with everyone getting soup. Mmmm, I loved that soup. Then everyone was served appetizers, köfte and chicken, and later, dessert. I was not particularly fond of the dessert. Two of the dishes were made with cheese. I guess I just don’t find cheese a “dessert” item.
Aside from the importance of fasting, I did notice that many more people were taking time out of their day to read the Quran. From what I have read, each day Muslims are to read a certain amount of the Quran so that after 30 days the whole Quran has been read. I am not sure how strict this is, but I did notice that in our own home, many would come together to read and then socialize after. It didn’t happen every day, though that could have been for a number of reasons, including people’s schedules not matching up.

Now, here is what I also noticed that rubbed me the wrong way… Many people stayed up later each night to eat as much as they can before dawn. This meant that there were many “mornings” that began at noon or later. I personally thought this was some type of cheater’s way out. But then again, doesn’t every religion cheat on things here and there…

FIBA World Championship

For the last few months, whenever I would go to the movies there would be a promo before the movie started for the 2010 FIBA. This year, for the first time, it was held here in Istanbul. I do enjoy basketball, so I was planning on maybe going to a US game or something. When I looked at the initial schedule, the only game I was going to be able to attend was the US vs. ??? some country I don’t think I had ever heard of! So, I spared myself the money. By the time the tournament came around, Aug. 28th, I was so preoccupied with many other things that I had pretty much forgotten about it.

Well, a few days before the big final I started catching on. I knew the US would still be in the tournament…they are pretty much unstoppable. But, what was surprising was that Turkey was still in it as well! People around here really started getting interested in the game. The night of the Semi-finals with Turkey vs Serbia, the family went out and left me with the little one. After I successfully put her to bed, I turned on the game and really was able to watch. My, oh my, what a great game. Serbia was ahead for pretty much the entire game, but Turkey was always just a few points behind. I thought that it could be a sad end for Turkey. But, then with just 4 minutes left in the game there was a sudden burst of energy from Turkey and all was not lost! It was incredible! I could not believe what I was seeing. Shots were made when they seemed too impossible. Points that seemed easy were missed by Serbia. And with just a few seconds left in the game, Turkey scored a 3 point shot that put them over the top. They were able to hold on to that victory for the final 4 seconds that Serbia had to score. Amazing! I could hear people screaming in their homes along our street as they watched this victory! Thankfully, there were no vuvuzulas!

That then left me in a bit of a dilemma… Turkey would play the US for the championship. I thought, what are the chances? This was Turkey’s first time in the final 4 even, and here I am in Istanbul, where the games are being held, watching my home country playing the country I was living it. I didn’t know who to root for! Well, that quickly changed as I remembered I am a proud American that would never root for another team. So, on Sept 12th, I crossed my fingers and hoped watching the game with my Turkish boss would not be a mistake. I may be an American that can’t wait to go home, but I really wasn’t ready to go home yet!

The final game was pretty exciting. I did worry at the beginning because the US were getting a lot of fouls called on them. It probably was a normal amount, considering there are always fouls made by teams and players, but I was feeling particularly edgy, so any aggression my team was showing made me think that I looked like the villain. The first half of the game was pretty close. Turkey was keeping up, which was great but also stressful. I wanted the win! At around halftime, the US started to pull ahead. It was beginning to be clear that the US would take Turkey. While it was sad to see Turkey start to really lose, I was beginning to feel more relieved because I knew that with as many fouls as were called earlier, it was really becoming apparent that the US was the better team. I was grateful that in the end it was not a close game, but one that was won with a 81-64 victory! Even with the loss, Turkey played great and made it to their first championship game in the history of the country! Way to go Turkey! And, although the US, in my mind, is the best team in the world, I was surprised to learn that this championship was the first for the USA in 16 years (though, the game is only played every 4 years)! GO USA!!!

Summertime and Creepy Crawlies!

Summer is officially over!!! This summer has been unlike anything I really have ever experienced. I am used to hot, dry summers that begin in May and end in October. Istanbul has taught me that summer does not begin until June 22nd and ends Sept 22nd, no ifs, ands or buts about it!!!!

I began to feel a little homesick in May. In May, many people in Arizona were lounging by the pool, enjoying the water and working on their tans. I was stuck in the house, watching the rain hit the pool wondering when I will ever swim again. It wasn’t until literally, the third week of June that I felt I could get in the pool without dying from hypothermia. But, once I was in the pool, it was hard to get me out!! I really enjoyed the water all summer long, and even swam a bit in the Bosphorus and the Mediterranean. It was wonderful!!

The days were very humid this summer. There were times I would be sweating just from sitting on a couch. I couldn’t grip the fact that it doesn’t matter what I was doing, my shirt was always wet somewhere. I was not a fan, but I learned to deal.




What was even more surprising was the number of creatures I came in contact with this summer! I have never seen so many slugs, snails, centipedes, and scorpions…This coming from a desert girl!! Luckily, I am not afraid, so many of the little guys (or girls) were saved and released into an area where they couldn’t accidentally get stepped on. Often times, I would find these creatures in my room, as I have a bottom level room that is actually slightly below the garden level. So, to ensure the safety of those little slugs and snails I would keep a piece of paper on hand to give them somewhere to sit while I carried them into the garden. As for the scorpions and centipedes…well, they were too quick for their own good (and my comfort) so unfortunately they got to meet the 300 page textbook that I kept on hand. I felt bad, but there is only so much this girl can handle!

It is now September 23rd, Fall officially beginning yesterday, and I have yet to see a creepy crawler and we have not felt much heat in about a week! It really is weird to experience the actual seasons! That does mean, however, that I will have to go through my first winter!!! Snow??? What’s that?