Ramazan

A bonus to living in a large city, with a predominately Islamic following, is that I get to experience various holidays and traditions. One that recently took over our lives here in Istanbul was Ramazan. First of all, in most of the world it is called Ramadan. However, here is it called Ramazan. I have not entirely figured out the reasons for this.

Ramazan is the ninth month of the Islamic calendar. The Islamic calendar is different from the standard calendar used by most of the world because it is based on the lunar positions. Every year, the months change, so every year Ramazan starts and ends on a different day. Although, the days only move one or two days a year. This year it began on August 11th. Similar to the normal length of a month, Ramazan ends 30 days (or so) later.

During Ramazan, Muslims are expected to fast during the day. This means no beverages, food, or sexual activity from sun up until the evening call for prayer at sunset. Naturally, as the month progressed, the sun rose later and set sooner. The purpose of fasting is to remind Muslims about the importance of patience and spirituality. Along with fasting, the Quran is read more intensely, daily. I also learned that with fasting, Muslims are reminded of the many people living in poverty and unable to eat at every meal.

On the first day of Ramazan, August 11th, I happened to have the day off. Knowing that it was the first day of Ramazan, yet easily forgetting, I toured the town. Instantly, I noticed a difference on the streets…there were not as many people! It took me about a mile’s bus ride to remember why. As we continued into town, I noticed many restaurants were closed. This is typical, as business is far less during the days this month, so they do not waste money keeping their restaurants open. When I arrived at Usküdar it was lunchtime. I grabbed a quick sandwich and ate away. I noticed there were very few people eating. Not nearly as many as I had seen in the past, flocking around the Döner stands. It felt a little weird. I even thought someone “tisked, tisked, tisked” at me. Looking back I realized I must have imagined it because it is not uncommon for someone to eat during the day. Typically, women are expected to eat while on their periods to keep their bodies healthy.

On this particular day, I happened to head out to the Grand Bazaar. I had not gotten there until late in afternoon, around 7pm. At that time many of the shopkeepers were closing up. I knew this was particularly early, so I asked what was going on. I was told that because of Ramazan, the Grand Bazaar was closing early to enjoy Iftar.

Iftar is the evening meal that is served after the call for prayer. Usually families get together each night to enjoy this meal and the end of fasting for the day. Later on in the month, I was able to enjoy an Iftar dinner at a restaurant with the family. Though we arrived late, the evening meal was quite interesting. Immediately after the call for prayer, waiters began serving dinner. The restaurant was packed, with not a single table empty. It started with everyone getting soup. Mmmm, I loved that soup. Then everyone was served appetizers, köfte and chicken, and later, dessert. I was not particularly fond of the dessert. Two of the dishes were made with cheese. I guess I just don’t find cheese a “dessert” item.
Aside from the importance of fasting, I did notice that many more people were taking time out of their day to read the Quran. From what I have read, each day Muslims are to read a certain amount of the Quran so that after 30 days the whole Quran has been read. I am not sure how strict this is, but I did notice that in our own home, many would come together to read and then socialize after. It didn’t happen every day, though that could have been for a number of reasons, including people’s schedules not matching up.

Now, here is what I also noticed that rubbed me the wrong way… Many people stayed up later each night to eat as much as they can before dawn. This meant that there were many “mornings” that began at noon or later. I personally thought this was some type of cheater’s way out. But then again, doesn’t every religion cheat on things here and there…